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Daruma++ bolts Version 2 (on South Bend 9A)

These custom fasteners will be used on Mark Vande Kamp's Goodrich. They secure a fender stay and allow a rack to be installed without disturbing the fender setup. The fender stay is secured by a tiny M5 set screw which is run down a hole through the center of the bolt. The rack attachs with a M5x10mm bolt which goes into the same hole.

This photo essay shows how I made one of these fasteners.
Read More
Setting the stop.<br />
The yellow arrow shows that the cutting tool is lined up with one of the marks that we made on the stock.  The green arrow shows that the carriage is up against the stop block.  This will prevent the carriage from moving too far.
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Setting the stop.
The yellow arrow shows that the cutting tool is lined up with one of the marks that we made on the stock. The green arrow shows that the carriage is up against the stop block. This will prevent the carriage from moving too far.

  • The first one.  We're making a copy of it.
  • Marking off key locations.  Most of the dimensions on this fastener don't need to be exact.  This is being made out of 1/2" diameter 303 stainless steel stock.<br />
There are 3 pieces to our fastener.  The part that I'm making on the lathe.  A tiny M5 set screw which holds the fender stay.  A M5x10 stainless socket cap screw will hold the rack in place.
  • Turning down the right side of the bolt to 9.25mm.
  • Turned.
  • Drilling a 5mm cross hole for the fender stay.  I actually made a pilot hole first with a center bit, but didn't take a photo of that.
  • Taking off a tiny bit of the OD to clean up the area around the fender hole.  Without it there is sharp flashing exposed from drilling the hole.
  • Drilling a pilot hole for the fender fixing screw and rack mounting hole.
  • Opening up the hole to 4.2mm.  We'll tap it fit a M5 bolt.
  • Tapping (by hand).  Sorry about the blurry photo.
  • Tapped.
  • Using the bandsaw to cut our bolt off of the round stock.
  • Setting the stop.<br />
The yellow arrow shows that the cutting tool is lined up with one of the marks that we made on the stock.  The green arrow shows that the carriage is up against the stop block.  This will prevent the carriage from moving too far.
  • Turning down for the M5 portion of our bolt.
  • We need this portion to be 5mm in diameter.  It is currently 6.44mm in diameter.  That is a difference of 1.44, and half of that (the radius) is .72mm.  The caliper makes a very nice metric to SAE converter (the dials on my lathe are in SAE) and tells us that we need to remove 0.028".  <br />
I removed 0.028" and we got to 5.02mm.
  • Setting up the die.  5mm x 0.8 (aka M5)
  • Using the die to make external M5 threads.  This is done under power _very_ slowly (around 40rpm).
  • A wider shot showing how we use the die on the lathe.  It is mounted in a die holder, which is then mounted in the tailstock.  I manually advance the tailstock as the lathe turns the fastener.
  • Mates.  Not exact duplicates, but close enough.
  • Finished product.<br />
<br />
The bolt that we made will go into an eyelet in the bicycle fork.  There is a tiny M5 set screw inside the bolt which holds the fender stay in place.  Another M5 socket cap bolt holds the rack onto our bolt.  This setup allows the rack to be removed without touching the fender setup, even though they will share an eyelet.
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