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Gifford

Wetmorian#1 http://alexandchristine.smugmug.com/gallery/7709240_62Gg9#548647640_GdUk5) starting over again. This is going to be a 650B touring/urban bike with an eccentric bottom bracket to work well with a Rohloff hub. 73 HTA, 40mm trail, 72 STA, 5 degree sloping top tube.
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Checking the head tube alignment against the seat tube.  There is an aluminum spacer with an OD of 1.125" to match the seat tube diameter.  It fits around a 1" temporary steerer.
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Checking the head tube alignment against the seat tube. There is an aluminum spacer with an OD of 1.125" to match the seat tube diameter. It fits around a 1" temporary steerer.

alignmentbicycleframebuildingwetmorian1.1brazing

  • Another shot of the tire clearance.
  • Chainstays brazed.  In this shot you can see that my chainstays are a little closer to center on the BB shell than I had drawn them.  That accounts for the missing tire clearance.  It did give me more space for the fillets.
  • The frame in it's current state.  It's looking like a bicycle
  • Dropouts.
  • Fillets.  Chainstay fillets are "raw", the seat tube fillet has a little cleanup.
  • This view really shows how the Ritchey tabs work.  I like the design, it gives a lot of surface area for the brazing and offsets the dropout to increase cassette clearance.
  • Setting the scratch gauge at the bottom bracket end of the seat tube.
  • Comparing it at the top end of the seat tube
  • How the frame is setup on the alignment table.  The frame is supported by the bottom bracket.  I have to rotate it because my table is narrow.
  • Checking the head tube alignment against the seat tube.  There is an aluminum spacer with an OD of 1.125" to match the seat tube diameter.  It fits around a 1" temporary steerer.
  • Checking the dropout alignment.  First I center the alignment gauge against the seat tube.
  • We can see that the chainstays aren't properly centered.
  • I bent (cold-set) them both up a little bit until they were aligned.
  • The square is pushed up against the lower dropout.  There is a little gap in the upper one, so the upper chainstay needs to be cold-set.
  • Now they are both in line with each other.
  • Another view of how the square is used on the surface plate.
  • Another view of how the square is used on the surface plate.
  • This is how I cut the angle on the seatstay using the milling machine.  The angle was just picked by eye.
  • The slotting tool makes the cut.
  • Mocked up cut against the frame.  In hindsight I should have made the seatstay a little shorter, the very tip should be at the midpoint of the seat tube.
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